Det bliver ikke mere italiensk – ej heller mere velsmagende. Vitello tonnato er noget så mærkeligt som kalv i tunsovs. Indrømmet – det ligner ikke en million. Men prøv det nu, bare én gang! Vitello tonnato er nok på en top 5 over den italienske mad jeg holder mest af – og det siger en del! Vitello tonnato er oprindeligt – ligesom mange andre klassiske, sublime retter – fattigmad – tag bare ‘Pissaladiere’ – en legendarisk ‘pizza’ fra Sydfrankrig lavet på løg. Det er mad som Mutter fandt på, når pungen var tom og der var mange munde at mætte, og vitello tonnato består egentlig blot af en rest kød der maskeres med en fyldig tunsovs – og så brød for resten. Retten stammer (vistnok) oprindeligt fra Piemonte og der findes – naturligvis – et utal af varianter. Min kommer her, og ligesom de fleste italienske Mutter’e, holder jeg på at min version er den bedste!

 

4-5 personer til hovedret / det dobbelte til forret

 

Du skal bruge

KALVEKØD
Ca. 800 g kalveinderlår, lårtunge eller tilsvarende
1-2 spsk olivenolie til bruning
1-1½ l kalvefond eller halvt grøntsags- og halvt oksefond
2 gulerødder
1 løg
2-3 friske eller 4-5 tørrede laurbærblade
Salt,peber

TUNSOVS
3 dåser tun (ca. 400 g drænet vægt, gerne i olie)
2 pasteuriserede æggeblommer
Ca. 1 spsk citronsaft
25 g kapers
1 lille tsk salt og godt med peber (mere end man regner med)
1½ dl neutral olie
Lidt kalvefond fra kogning af kødet

PYNT
Bredbladet persille, citronbåde, kapers
Sådan gør du

KALVEKØDET – DAGEN FØR ELLER OM MORGENEN
Kalveinderlåret krydres godt med salt og peber, og brunes ved god varme på alle sider i en gryde i olivenolien. Fonden hældes ved, til det nogenlunde dækker kødet. Gulerødder og løg skæres i grove stykker og kommes i gryden sammen med laurbærbladene. Kødet koges i ca. 30 minutter til en kernetemperatur på omkring 58 grader, gryden tages af varmen og kødet trækker i suppen til det er kølet af. Sættes koldt til det er kølet helt af.

TUNSOVS – NOGLE TIMER INDEN SERVERING ELLER DAGEN FØR
Tunen drænes og kommes i en foodprocessor sammen med æggeblommer, citronsaft, kapers, salt og peber. Alt køres til en cremet masse. Olien spædes i tuncremen i en tynd stråle mens foodprocessoren kører, så tunen kan nå at opsuge olien. Når olien er kørt i tunen, kan sovsen fortyndes med lidt af den tiloversblevne fond fra kalven – det bliver tunsovsen kun bedre af. Rør fond i til tunsovsen har konsistens som tyk vælling, og akkurat kan hældes fra en kande. Smag til med citronsaft og måske yderligere salt og peber.

Kalvekødet skæres i meget tynde skiver og anrettes på et stort fad lidt kant. Halvdelen af tunsovsen fordeles på kødet og den anden halvdel kommes i en kande og serveres til. Fadet filmes og sættes på køl i nogle timer, eller måske til dagen efter.

Lige inden servering pyntes fadet med bredbladet persille, lidt kapers og nogle citronbåde inden servering. Spises med et godt brød til.

Tips & Tricks
Jeg koger kun kødet til det er rosa. Temperaturen i kødet stiger nogle grader efter at gryden er taget af varmen, så pas på at det ikke får for meget. Du behøver ikke at bruge en så fancy en stump kød som kalveinderlår, købt til lejligheden. Brug en rest roastbeef, stumpen af en steg eller en rest svinemørbrad i stedet. Tunsovsen skal nok gøre sit arbejde!

Det er en jungle at købe tun på dåse og der er næsten ikke nogle mærker, hvor man med sikkerhed kan sige at købet er bæredygtigt og støtter dyrevelfærd. Men – gå efter MSC mærket tun, som er den mest stuerene tun man kan købe i almindelige supermarkeder.

 

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